Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Stultus Valley Days - II: Meeting the Neighbors

The first thing I noticed was the stares.

I’d just come from my hiring interview with the county.  Deciding to get my bearings, I strolled Linden’s mostly deserted, windswept main street.  After a few minutes I felt that uneasy frisson one gets when someone is looking intently at him.  A couple of rough-looking characters in worn boots and weathered Stetsons were standing just outside the doorway of the Linden Inn, the town’s sole restaurant, bar, and motel.  I quickly realized I stood out: I was a stranger.   

Of course, I knew folks in Stultus Valley were rough spun.  I actually looked forward to working with them precisely because of this quality.  I recalled a book I read in a college anthropology class, Yesterday’s People by Jack Weller.  Weller had been a social worker in Appalachia during the War on Poverty in the early 1960s.  A cultural trait he noticed among the people he worked with was that they tended to live in the moment, were family- rather than community-oriented, and deeply distrusted outsiders.  Like Weller, I harbored the notion that I could break down any resistance with hard work and personal concern for people’s troubles.  Looking back, I suspect I idealized my neighbors in a rather condescending way.  That is my sole regret from my time in the Valley. 

Once I’d settled in, I began to learn the quirks, peculiarities, and idiosyncrasies of the Valley’s denizens.  One of the first things I noticed is that many of their names ended in vowels.  It was soon explained to me that Stultus Valley had been settled by Italian immigrants who herded cattle.  Italian cowboys, if you will.  Italian…cowboys.

I’ll admit I had a difficult time wrapping my mind around the whole idea of an Italian cowboy.  Still do, in fact.  “Italian” and “cowboy” were simply two words I never expected to share the same phrase unless the name Sergio Leone appeared elsewhere in the sentence.

Now, lest you think me narrow minded, please know that I attended public school during the heyday of historical revisionism.  I knew Western settlers came from all kinds of backgrounds.  I learned, for instance, that many cowboys after the Civil War were African-American freedmen.  Hailing from territory which once belonged to Spain and Mexico, I was aware from an early age that the vaqueros were the original cowboys.  But this detail of the Stultus Valley backstory was a bit novel for me.

Having given the idea some thought, however, I quickly realized its potential as a mashup of stale pop culture stereotypes.  Just consider the possibilities: Cowboy Tony.  Cowboy Vinnie.  Cowboy…Don Corleone!  (“Ah made him an offer he couldn’a refuse, pardner.”) 

There are so many questions about how these hardy pioneers lived.  Did they live at home with their mothers?  Did gold chains and crucifixes accessorize well with Western wear?  Was it possible to get an authentic New York slice from the back of a chuck wagon?  What was the equine equivalent of the Chevy Camaro?  Did they whack their rivals with six-shooters?  Could they dance like John Travolta and his buddies in Saturday Night Fever?  Did the women in their lives all have names like Donna, Angie, and Gina?

Oh, I could go on, but you get the idea.  Truth was, they weren’t much different from the garden variety rednecks I grew up around in my own small town: Weathered, resentful, beaten down by life, the descendants of Europe’s social refuse routinely bashed by comedians and eulogized by the likes of Jim Goad and the late Joe Bageant.  Nevertheless, folks in Stultus Valley took this heritage thing seriously.  It wasn’t as if there were many people to dispute them.  So, in the interest of maintaining harmony with my new neighbors I kept my smartass observations to myself.

Besides, their self-image proved rather fragile in the face of strangers.  I got the impression that they saw themselves as like the denizens of TV’s Mayberry, simple but honest folk possessing a homespun wisdom superior to that of the city slicker who would ride into town looking to rook the local rubes but who instead meets his comeuppance at the hands of good Sheriff Andy and friends.

They clearly needed this illusion to sustain their tenuous sense of self-worth.  For many of its natives, the Valley was their whole universe.  The outside world was a scary place hardly acknowledged.  One got the impression they believed if they took one of the two state highways leading out of the Valley that once over the mountains they would fall off the edge of the world and be eaten by dragons.  Consequently, they suffered from a xenophobia which made them quite myopic when beholding outsiders.

An important fact I had to consider was that, unlike the rest of contemporary society, where economic and cultural capital are the yardsticks of position, family relationships dictated Stultus Valley’s social hierarchy.  A question I heard frequently after my arrival was, “Who are you related to?”  Family, whether through blood or marriage, defined you and your place, as well as how other people treated you.  If your stepdaddy’s first cousin once removed had a dispute with the member of another clan, you and everyone else in your family were expected to shun or otherwise show hostility to anyone you met from the rival house. 

Like the Hatfields and McCoys, these feuds, often over petty, insignificant matters, could last for years or, occasionally, across generations.  Given the absence of any meaningful extracurricular pursuits, however, these protracted disputes served as a sort of drearily malign pastime for an isolated population with way too much time on its hands.  Navigating the thorny terrain of familial relationships in Stultus Valley would prove a formidable challenge for an outsider like me, as I was soon to learn.

Next installment: Family Style


© 2013 The Unassuming Scholar

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